Retrospective

Throughout my seven weeks in Rome I was able to explore many piazzas, have breakfast in numerous cafes, and sample different kinds of Italian wine.

I chose piazzas as one of my places to blog about because they are an extremely important part of Italian life and culture. You can run into a piazza in Rome on almost every walk you take. Piazza Navona was one of the main piazzas I chose to focus on. It is one of the larger piazzas in Rome and contains The Fontana del Nettuno and Sant'Agnese in Agone.

I chose wine as one of my themes because Italy is known for its wine and I knew I would be traveling to Tuscany during my seven weeks. I have always enjoyed wine but have never taken the time to understand how it made or the proper way to drink it.

Finally, I chose cafes and Italian breakfast as my last theme because breakfast is my favorite meal of the day. The Italian morning routine in cafes is entirely different than American morning routine. In cafes, Italians stand and socialize while sipping cappuccino or caffes. They enjoy pastries in the morning as opposed to cereal or eggs. Most cafe shelves are filled with croissants, donuts, or creme filled pastries. The cafe is a meeting place for Italians in the morning and afternoon.

I thoroughly enjoyed experiencing the Italian culture by visiting the piazzas, drinking the wine, and dining in the cafes. I loved learning about my themes and places and hope that these blogs allowed you all to learn about them as well!

Last Morning in a Cafe in Rome

On my last day in Rome I figured I had to have one more breakfast at a cafe. Some of the girls and I decided to go to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere to Caffe delle Arance. We had passed this cafe many times before and admired the many oranges that were displayed in the windows and the large flute glass that the spremuta came in.

When our spremuta arrived at our table I was elated. The spremuta was the best I had had since I arrived in Rome. It was so fresh and sweet. It woke me right up to explore Rome for the last time. I finished the entire glass, which is about a foot tall, within five minutes, and I felt great about it. The only thing to note about the spremuta is that it costs seven Euro, but it is well worth it.

I know that my Tropicana orange juice (which is my absolute favorite at home) won't even come close in comparison to a freshly squeezed glass of spremuta. I am considering buying a juicer at home so that I can make my own fresh squeezed orange juice.

Kosher Wine

Today I was finally able to go to dinner in the Jewish Ghetto at a Kosher ristorante with Ilana and her mom. To go along with my dinner I decided to try some Kosher wine. While doing some research about Kosher wine in Italy to my surprise I found an article that said Kosher wine is on the rise in Italy, especially in Milan and Rome.

To be considered Kosher wine there are many rules that must be followed. First, to abide by Jewish law only followers of the Jewish faith may come in contact with the wine. Second, no yeast products made from animals may be used in the production of the wine. Finally, the vineyard producing the wine must shut down production every seven years and rest.

There are about twelve vineyards in Italy currently producing Kosher wine. "Giordano is the biggest, producing two million bottles a year, all of which is destined for the markets in the United states and Canada". I have to admit that back in the States the only Kosher wine I have ever had was Manishevitz, and I am not very fond of it. The wine I had tonight at dinner was delicious. It was a little sweet and so much better than the cheap Manishevitz wine we typically have for Jewish holidays.

"Kosher wine production in Italy on the rise." Italy 16 June 2008 25 Jun 2008.

An Overview of Piazzas

I thought it would be nice to begin wrapping up my blog posts about piazzas in Rome by defining what a space needs to have to be considered a piazza. I thought about this the other day on my 20 minute walk home from class because in that time I passed at least ten areas that are considered piazzas. All of these spaces were extremely different though. Some were incredibly large, full of tourists, restaurants, and entertainers while others were simply a place for cars to park.

It turns out that to be considered a piazza there just needs to be an open public space. There are no specific guidelines besides that. Although piazzas are typical in Italy, they are found in other regions and can be compared to the Spanish plaza.

Piazzas are used for social gatherings and entertainment. They are the center of Italian life and are almost always filled with people engaging with one another and the culture around them. Piazza Navona, Piazza di Spagna, and Piazza del Popolo are three of the largest piazzas in Rome and my three favorite.They are big tourist attractions but are also frequented by locals as well. Some of my favorite memories of the past seven weeks have occurred in these piazzas.

In Piazza Navona, at night, I was able to see Tom Hanks and Ron Howard during the filming of Angels and Demons. I was only twenty feet from two of the biggest names in Hollywood. It was something I will remember for the rest of my life. I can not wait for the film to come out in theaters so that I can recognize different places in Rome that appear and to see the scene that I saw them film.

In Piazza di Spagna, at night, most of the people in the CAS program and myself gathered to experience the piazza at night on the steps. It was a great way for everyone to bond together, outside under the clear night's sky. It was interesting to see how we interacted with each other compared to the Italian teenagers. Besides the obvious clothing attire difference, I found the Italians to be enjoying themselves in much smaller groups than we were. The live music they provided us with though was wonderful and all in English!

"Piazza." Wikipedia. 22 Jan 2008. 25 Jun 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piazza.

Botanical Garden in Trastevere

While the heat was still tolerable last week a few of the girls and I decided to explore the Botanical Garden called Orto Botanico in Trastevere. Although it is only a short walk from our apartment, once inside you feel like you are in a completely different place. The annoying sounds of the city disappear, along with the horrid smell of trash and body odor. Instead you hear birds chirping, ducks splashing in the pond, and smell fresh flowers and sap. It is the perfect place to escape the hectic and rapid pace of the city and clear your head as you walk around the grounds.

Although I was expecting to see many more flowers in bloom, I was still impressed by what was there. Immediately upon entering the garden you were greeted by enormously tall trees, with long leafy branches. At our first stop we all different types of cactus plants. I've never actually seen cactus in nature so it was neat to see how it grows. As we moved along through the grounds we wondered into a green room filled with the most interesting cactus I have ever seen. There were cactus roses that were green with red edges. If you didn't look close enough you would think that they were real roses.

Further along on our exploration of the garden we saw bamboo stalks that were at least 15 feet high. I couldn't believe that one space was able to allow cactus, bamboo, and roses to grow. I didn't know that all three were able to survive in similar climates.

As we continued walking we climbed up the top of hill and saw an incredible view of Rome. The trees in the garden acted like a frame around St. Peter's dome. It turned out to be a great picture!

I was sad to leave the garden and enter the noisy city of Rome again. I liked the peacefulness of the garden and the ability to clear my head. I wish I would have found the space sooner so that I could have escaped their when the apartment was too much for me to handle, but I am just glad I was able to see when I did.

A walking tour of cafes & piazzas in Rome

Monday morning in Campo de'Fiori we started our tour of cafes and piazzas led by the one and only Carley Bria. In Campo de'Fiori we were able to salivate over the fresh produce, which we didn't purchase because the prices were a bit too high, and shop for some souvenirs at the different vendor tables.

Following our leader we stopped in Piazza della Rotonda to sample some granitade caffé con pannas at the cafe La Tazza d'Oro. The cafe is known for its exotic coffee beans, espresso, and granita. Everyone that tried the icy beverage enjoyed it, except me. I have come to the conclusion that I just don't the taste buds for coffee!

After all of the cups were empty we made our way to Via Condotti, which is known for its expensive shops. I could only dream about purchasing something in the designer stores and take pictures of their store fronts. It was such a tease to be in front of so many exquisite pieces of clothes knowing I could not afford any of it.

Once we got to the end of Via Condotti we were met by Piazza di Spagna. It was still relatively early in the morning but the sweltering heat from the sun seemed to be keeping the piazza fairly empty. This was the first time I saw the Spanish Steps during the day and due to the overwhelming heat I hardly had a chance to stop and appreciate them before we moved down Via del Babuino to Piazza del Popolo. In Piazza del Popolo, the largest piazza in Rome I have been to, they were setting up for an appreciation rally for rescue personnel. There was a giant red cross at the one end of the piazza and a platform covered in red at the other end of the piazza. Located on either side of the twin chruches are two political based rival cafes. Cafe Canova, situated on the right side, is a more conservative cafe. It was full of people sitting at the numerous outdoor tables. Cafe Rosati, situated on the left side, is more liberal. Although it was much less crowded than Cafe Canova I enjoyed it just the same. The pastries that filled the glass shelves inside were miniature in size and brightly colored. I tried a mini chocolate eclair and was in heaven. The pastry shell was so fresh and the chocolate center oozed out as I bit it. It was a great way to end our walk and forget about the intense heat awaiting outside.

A Cafe to Try

If you are looking for a new cafe to try and want to people watch at the same time I suggest trying Ristorante di Rienzo. It is located in Piazza della Rotonda and to the left of the Pantheon if you are looking into the piazza from the Pantheon. The city block is stands on is Palazzo Giustiniani, which was commissioned by Monsignor Francesco Vento in the 1850's. Mr. Michele di Rienzo opened the ristornate and caffe in the early fifties and it has been an important stop ever since for tourists and important locals alike.

At Ristorante di Rienzo you can sample a wide variety of pastries like "the “mimosa”, the “sacher”, profitterols" or have a bite sized cookie. There is also 36 different flavors of gelato to try. To go along with your pastry you can either try a cappuccino (before 11:00 am of course) or a caffe.

The relaxing atmosphere and abundance of outdoor seating make this a great place to people watch or just relax with the Pantheon in full view. I recommend avoiding the mid afternoon hours because the piazza tends to be extremely crowded with tourists at those hours.

"Ristorante di Rienzo." 24 Jun 2008. http://www.caffedirienzo.com/Eng/Home_en.html.

Cinque Terre Wine

After hiking all day through the five towns that make up the Cinque Terre region I was eager to try some fresh fish and local wine. In Cinque Terre two types of wine are produced: Cinque Terre and Sciacchetra. I tried the Cinque Terre the first and was hooked for the rest of the weekend.

Cinque Terre is a white wine that is dry but still has a sweet after taste. Since it is produced by the ocean, it compliments the fish caught in the region. It also goes well with the pesto dishes (which Cinque Terre is known for).

Sciacchetra is a dessert red wine that only gets better with age. Although it is said to be rather dry, it provides a nice balance to your sweet dessert.

Phillips, Kyle. "Le Cinque Terre." About.com. 22 Jun 2008. http://italianfood.about.com/library/weekly/aa011497.htm.

Details about Piazzas in Guided Tour

The beginning of your tour of Piazzas in Rome starts you at Capitol Hill, in Piazza del Campidoglio. Here, like I said before, are the two buildings, Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, which comprise the Capitoline Museums. The museums contain various paintings and sculptures. Some of the highlighted works include the Red Faun, Dying Galatian, Medusa, and the She-Wolf.

The Piazza Venezia contains the Palazzo Venezia and Museum and the Victor Emmanuel Monument. In the Palazzo Venezia, which was constructed "in 1455-64 for the Venetian cardinal Peitro Barbo", you can view collections of art of early Renaissance paintings and sculptures, tapestries, and statues. Before you go to the museum check to see if any temporary exhibitions are going to be held, so you can make sure to see them.

In center of Piazza di Spagna you will find the Baraccia fountain and the famous stairs that lead you to Trinita dei Monti, a 16th-century church. From here you will be able to have one of the greatest views of the entire city. In you are looking for a cafe to relax in and enjoy some croissants or try a cappuccino, Cafe Greco is the place to go. It is located at the corner where Via Condotti and Via di Propaganda meet. It is an extremely elaborate cafe with deep, rich red walls and dark wood furniture. Before you leave the piazza, try to stop at the Keats-Shelley Memorial House. It is a memorial library that honors John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley, two English Romantic poets.

The final stop is Piazza del Popolo, a grand oval shaped piazza which used to be home to many public executions. The Piazza has been gradually transformed over the years since its beginning to what it looks like today. There is "two twin Neo-Classical church facades" that sandwich Porta del Popolo with an Egyptian obelisk in the center. On a nice day you will find the piazza packed with cars, people, vendors, and restaurants.

EyeWitness Guide (pgs 66, 130-1, 134, 137)

Guided Tour to Piazzas in Rome

The start of your guided tour to piazzas in Rome will begin at Capitol Hill by walking up Michelangelo's Cordonata staircase. Here you will reach Piazza del Compidoglio. In this piazza you will be surrounded by three buildings, which comprise the Capitoline Museum.

While standing with the staircase to your back, walk left on Via di San Pietro in Carcere. On your left you should pass Santa Maria in Aracoli, which is a church that houses the "15th-century fresco of the Funeral of St. Bernardino by Pinturicchio". Following the road to the left you will see Piazza Venezia. You will know you are at the right piazza when you see the Victor Emmanuel Monument located at the top of the stairs.

To reach the next location, Piazza di Spagna, simply walk north on Via del Corso, passing the Museo del Corso on your left. At Via Condotti turn right ant continue walking down the street. Take note that this street contains some of the best shopping in all of Rome and even the world. I suggest walking slowly and window shopping but account for this extra time if you are meeting people at the next location. When you reach the end of Via Condotti, you will run right into Piazza di Spagna. While in the piazza you may want to visit Trinita de Monti, a 16th-century church.

To get to your final piazza simply walk north on Via del Babuino. Continue on the road until you walk into Piazza del Popolo. This is your final destination on the guided tour of piazzas in Rome. You will find yourself in the northern part of the city of Rome, so you may want to take the metro back to your hotel or apartment. There is a metro stop located just to the right of the piazza.

English Breakfast in Rome?

Breakfast in Rome is typically quite small, so when Hilary told me that she found a place for a Sunday brunch I was eager to try it. The restaurant is called the Stardust Cafe. We made sure of the hours they were open and the location before leaving for the open market in Trastevere Sunday morning. Numerous websites said that it was open for brunch on Sunday from 11:00 am to 5:00 pm. It couldn't have sounded more perfect.

They supposedly have a real English breakfast consisting of eggs, bacon, sausage, potatoes, baked beans (which I could do without), bread, and a coffee all for only 11 Euro.

If you are wondering why I have yet to tell you how delicious it was, it is because when we finally made it to the tiny alley way and read the tiny sign with the restaurant's name we discovered something horrible. The restaurant's metal gates were down and they were closed! Yes, the websites were wrong and the restaurant (which was to be the highlight of my weekend in Rome) was not open for Sunday brunch.

Needless to say I was not a happy girl after this. I went straight to the apartment to call my dad and explain that this only made my desire for his fabulous pancakes even stronger! Only 12 more days until they are mine!

Homemade Wine in Boys' Town

While we were in Boys' Town of Rome, we were able to see the cellar where they store and sell the wine that they produce. The cold and musty room with cement floors and white, subway tiles that covered the walls had spouts all along the walls where the wine would come out.

You have the choice of either white or red wine to purchase. Anyone wishing to purchase the wine can bring their own water bottles or they can use the liter and a half bottles that they have in the shop to be filled with wine. It costs about 1,20 Euro for white and 1,50 Euro for red per liter.

I purchased a liter and a half of the red table wine. It is sweet and goes perfectly with all of my pasta dishes that I have been making for dinner. I really enjoy knowing where my wine came from and that my money is going to help boys that are in need.

Galleria Doria Pamphilj

The Galleria Doria Pamphilj, located to the right of our school in Piazza del Collegio Romano, is home to the biggest collection of paintings in Rome. The gallery is privately owned by the Doria Pamphilj family and contains paintings and sculptures by Raphael, Bernini, Caravaggio, Titan and various other artists [1].

The collections are displayed in the gallery in state rooms and in a "series of four gilded and painted galleries" around the courtyard [2]. I have been told that when I visit I must see Raphael's painting of a double-portrait of two well-dressed men. Although it is rather plain, it is extremely well-known and worth admiring! Also Velazquez's portrait of Innocent X, which is housed in the same room as Bernini's bust of Innocent X, is a painting I would like to see [2]. It is said to be one of the gallery's greatest paitnings.

[1] EyeWitness Guide pg 50-1-51
[2]"Doria Pamphilj Gallery ." Wikipedia. 6 June 2008. 16 Jun 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doria_Pamphilj_Gallery.

San Crisogono

The church San Crisogono is located in Trastevere on the corners of Via Della and Via S. Gallicano. It stands on the site of one of Rome's oldest tituli, which is a private house that is used for Christian worship [2]. The church is dedicated to Saint Chrysogonus [1].

To me it seems that this church could be seen as a recycled church because the mosaic floor is made from recycled marble from different Roman ruins. Also many of the church's pillars were from other buildings. I think this aspect adds a lot of character to the church and a lot of history.

Beneath the church floor you can pay an admission fee to see the excavations of the remains of the first church and the shrine of Saint Chrysogonus, which is in the middle of the apse wall [1].

[1] "San Crisogono." Wikipedia. 26 May 2008. 16 Jun 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Crisogono.
[2] EyeWitness Guide pg 211

Boys Town (after)

After visiting the Boys' Town of Rome I have a new found belief that anything is possible if you work hard enough for it. Carroll-Abbing, the founder of Boys' Town, had a vision of a safe place for boys in need of a home, guidance, and education. He, along with many other charitable people, have helped hundreds of thousands of young men become the outstanding citizens we all should strive to be.

While in Boys' Town we were fortunate enough to meet the mayor of the town. He explained to us that he holds the position for only two weeks but after someone new is elected he may campaign again and be re-elected. In the assembly room, the citizens of Boys' Town meet three times a week to discuss problems or issues that need to be addressed. All citizens have the opportunity to speak at these meetings, which can be attended by adults but they may not speak at the meetings.

In the case that someone needs to be reprimanded for their actions, they are brought to the assembly where a judge will find a consequence, usually cleaning the streets or restaurant.

The town seems to be ran very smoothly, considering no one is over the age of eighteen. I was extremely impressed how organized and mature all the boys were at such a young age. I don't know if I would have been able to handle all of the responsibilities they have at their age.

Piazza Navona in the A.M.

When one thinks of Piazza Navona, it usually brings to mind a scene full of people, art, and food. In the morning time, however, things are quite different. Since the market was moved to Campo de' Fiori, Piazza Navona is rather barren in the mornings.

The usual crowds of tourists are no where in site. The artists that fill the North end of the piazza have yet to arrive and begin their days work. The metal gates are still covering the doorways to the restaurants and their tables and chairs sit empty under the umbrellas. There are only a few people walking their dogs through the piazza. Most of them are simply passing through on their way to somewhere else.

The peacefulness of the empty space allows one to really admire the buildings and fountains in the piazza. When it is full of people and artists it is hard to see everything the space itself has to offer. The rushing water of the fountains takes over the piazza instead of the usual sounds of tourists and musicians.

In the morning Piazza Navona becomes the perfect place to gather your thoughts before you delve into the hectic city of Rome.

Boys Town (before)

During my visit to Boys Town I am interested in seeing how the community works together as a whole. It is not easy for teenagers to get along, let alone have a functioning community that runs relatively smoothly.

I want to understand how their 'government' system works as a whole. I would like to see how they create different rules and enforce them. I want to know if and how they deal with people who do not follow the rules. I would like to ask our guide how he became the head of the community and if they hold elections.

I am fascinated by the idea of a community being run solely by teenagers and can't really understand it all maintains such order. I hope to find this all out on Friday.

Terme di Nettuno: mosaico degli atleti

The central area of the Terme di Nettuno was used for athletes to train for various sports like wrestling, boxing, and other hand-to-hand combat sports. The open area, now covered by grasses and flowers, is surrounded by brick and stone rooms that were used for various reasons, perhaps some as dressing rooms for the fights.

The area was so calm, with a gentle breeze that would move the tall grasses from side to side. I couldn't but think how different the area but have been in its prime, with athletes of all size and strength training and competing to prove themselves to the community and themselves.

Jewish Bakery

This afternoon, Ilana and I decided to try and find this Jewish bakery in the Ghetto that her mom had told her about. We had the name, pasticceria ebraica "Il Boccione", the street name, and Ilana knew what the outside looked like. Still, I was unsure how easy it would be for us to find. I think someone upstairs wanted us to find it because the first street we walked down led us right to it.

Outside the shop in the street, it seemed like the whole neighborhood was gathered for lunch time. The entire area was full of life. There was also more Kosher restaurants than I am even used to seeing in the States in one area.

When we walked into the bakery, whose name in English means Jewish confectionery, my sense of smell immediately heightened. The sweet smell of sugar and cake batter coming from the kitchen was enough to make me want to sample a little of everything. Which isn't too difficult because the shop only sells about eight different items.

I tried a piece of chocolate cake. It is different from a normal cake, though, because all of the icing and chocolate was hidden inside a protective layer of cake. As soon as I got home I took a bite and was in heaven. It was incredibly sweet and different from any other cake that I have tried before.

Piazza della Rotonda

The other week I spent an hour or so just observing the people and activities occurring in Piazza della Rotonda. This particular piazza is almost always full of eager tourists on their way to the Pantheon or one of the many restaurants that surround the water fountain in the middle.

I sat for twenty minutes on the step of the fountain with the sun beating down on my face as I feverishly observed and wrote about what I saw.

Looking in the direction of the Pantheon my eyes were fixated on the horse and buggy drivers. They, unlike every other person in the piazza trying to make money off of the tourists, were lounging in their buggy without a care in the world. The two rather plump men with cigarettes dangling from their mouths were playing cards on the seats of their buggy.

Not once did I see them run up to a tourist or shout for them to come close to hear about their buggy ride. They seemed content just playing cards with each other, not making any money. After a few hands of their game of choice, both men hopped into their respective buggies and trotted off out of the piazza.

I guess they are either used to not being well received by tourists at that time of day in Piazza della Rotonda or they just didn't need to make a lot of money that day. Either way I was surprised by their lax behavior.

Chianti

Having just spent a night in Tuscany and immediately falling in love with the region, I thought it would be nice to learn more about the wine they are most known for: Chianti.

Chianti is a red wine that received its name in 1716 from the wine area Chianti. This area has grown almost 40 percent from three villages in 1716 to more than twelve. Many recently added villages simply add in Chianti to the end of their name to show that they are now apart of the region.

Most Chianti can be purchased in traditional wine bottles from as low as ten dollars and to as pricey as a few hundred dollars for a more sophisticated Chianti. Some wine makers still bottle their Chianti in a "squat bottle enclosed in a straw basket, called fiasco"[1].

Chianti is usually served and drank at room temperature, similar to other red wines. It is, however, considered a Super Tuscan wine because "it is made from a blend of grapes with Sangiovese as the dominant" grape [2].

[1]"Chianti." Wikipedia. 10 Jun 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chianti.

[2]"Italian Wine." Wikipedia.4 June 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_wine

When & When Not to Drink Cappuccino

Cappuccino, a "coffee-based drink made with espresso, hot milk, and milk foam", is a staple in Italy (1). However, you will almost never see an Italian drinking it after 11 am, only tourists.

This is because Italians feel that the milk in the cappuccino makes it much too heavy to be had any later in the day. They also never order one after a meal because the milk is much to filling. It makes the perfect beverage for breakfast because it is heavy enough to keep one full but not too filling to make one feel ill in the morning.

Although in America it is common to order a cappuccino after a nice meal, you will never see this done by an Italian. Cappuccinos in America are also much larger than the cappuccinos in Italy.

[1] "Cappuccino." Wikipedia. 3 June 2008. 9 Jun 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappuccino.

Directions to the Pantheon

Starting from the Termini Station, at the Piazza del Cinquecentro looking out, turn left on Via Cavour. Walk down four blocks and you will find Santa Maria Maggiore, located in Piazza del Esuilino. To leave the piazza take Via S. M. Maggiore, which will turn into Via Panisperna. Travel along this road around the left of the circle to V. IV Novembre. As you move along the road you will notice that it turns into V. Del Plebsato. Turn right on Via del Cestari. You will walk right into Bernini’s Egyptian obelisk and marble elephant here. Walk a little bit further straight and on your right you will see Santa Maria sopra Minerva. Continue just a little more on Via d. Minerva and you will find the Pantheon on the left.

It is a Catholic church that was once a Pagan church. There are numerous large columns that greet you at the entrance to the Pantheon, as well as large wooden doors that provide your entry inside. As you enter and look up, you will notice the oculus in the center of the Dome. Walk around the Pantheon to observe the Tomb of Raphael and the original Roman marble floors that were restored in 1873.

Directions to Piazza Navona

Starting from the Termini Station, at the Piazza del Cinquecentro looking out, turn left on Via Cavour. Continue down five streets and turn right onto Via A. Depretis, which will turn into Sistina Via Quattro Fontane. About six streets down on your right, you will notice Piazza Barberini and the Fontana del Tritone. Turn left on Via del Tritone. Continue down and make a left on Via del Corso. Walk down the road looking for Banca di Roma on the right. Here on the right as well, you will find my school in Piazza del Collegio Romano. Continue on Via del Corso until you see Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Make a right here. While on this road you will see Sant’Andrea della Valle on your left. The next street on your right is Corso del Rinascimento. Turn right here. Turn left on Via del Conestrani. Here you will find Piazza Navona.

The center of Piazza Navona, in the afternoon, will be filled with artists and their artwork, musicians, and tourists. There are plenty of restaurants that line the perimeter of the piazza. Above the restaurants are quaint brick buildings, with flower boxes on each window sill. Don’t forget to stop at each of the three fountains, located at each end and in the middle of Piazza Navona.

Bicycles Everywhere in Amsterdam

Last weekend I was in Amsterdam, which is basically a city full of bicycles. Unlike Rome, where most people either drive smart cars or Vespas, bicycles are the major means of transportation in Amsterdam.

It is somewhat difficult to navigate your way around the city because of all the bicycles, trains, and cars. The 'sidewalks' contain a bike path but it is difficult to distinguish from the walking path. I swear I must have pissed off half of the locals riding bikes throughout the weekend because I was constantly in the wrong lane.

The bicycles also seemed to be old fashion. They were higher off the ground than most in the States and were simple in design. The taxis were even bicycles! They had three wheels with a bucket-type seat on the back. I wish I had the chance to ride in one but we walked everywhere. Better for us anyway!

Directions to Catacombe di San Callisto and Catacombe di San Sebastiano

Starting from Stazione Centrale Roma Termini Station, take the Archeobus. It is a bright green, open air bus, with a “hop on, hop off” system. It picks you up at the station, on the half hour, from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm, and travels along the Appian Way, with 11 stops. The information we found and details about each stop can be found at Archeobus Route.

Tickets cost 13 Euro for adults and kids under 5 years old are free. They can be purchased online, on board, or at the Termini Station. We suggest that you purchase the tickets online, as there seems to be online discounts available.

Stop number 8 is Catacombe di San Callisto. We suggest you get off the bus and explore this catacomb. The hours are Thursday through Tuesday, 9:00 am to 12:00 pm. It opens again at 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm. It is closed on Wednesdays and in February. It takes approximately 30 to 40 minutes to complete the tour. Tickets cost 6 Euro for adults, 3 Euro for children under 15 years old and students and free admission for children under 6 years old. The information we found and more can be found at Home Page of San Callisto. After you finish you can either continue walking down Appian Way to our next suggested stop, the Catacombe di San Sebastiano, or hop back on the Archeobus. It will be the next stop on the bus tour.

Stop number 9 will drop you at Catacombe di San Sebastiano. The hours of operation and ticket costs are the same as mentioned above.
[1]

The Catacombs of San Callisto span from four different levels which include the crypt of the popes and the crypt of Santa Cecilia. The rooms which are of great importance in the Catacomb contain stucco and frescoes and can be reached by traveling through small hallways of volcanic remains. Also along the Appian Way is the Catacomb of San Sebastiano which can be identified with dull frescoes and graffiti. Although the catacombs seem to be a major tourist site, there are also basilicas located above the Christian tombs.

group members include: Nicole D., Hilary H., Juliana H., and Mia

[1] "Catacombe di San Sebastiano." 3 Jun 2008. http://www.catacombe.org/.

Sant'Agnese in Agone

When you enter Piazza Navona from Corsia Agonale, which you would if you were coming from the Pantheon, you are immediately met by an overwhelming building. This is the Sant'Agnese in Agone church. The name comes from St. Agnes, a young, virgin martyr. It was built in 1657. It is said that St. Agnes was forced to renounce her faith, naked and was killed on this site and burried in the catacombs along Via Nomentana.

The concave facade of the building was done by Rainaldi but mostly planned by Borromini. I did not know it earlier but after I researched this building I found out something interesting about the Fountain of Four Rivers. It is said that Bernini, who created the fountain, had one of the personifications hold his hand, seeming to protect himself from the facade of the Sant'Agnese in Agone. This is thought to be because of a tense relationship between the two men, but can't be proven because the fountain was completed before the facade of the building. The statue of St. Agnes, that resides on the facade of the building, is there to reassure the stability of the church.

On the interior of Sant'Agnese in Agone there is a dome covered in frescoes painted by Ciro Ferri, Sebastiano Corbellini, and Il Baciccia in the late 17th century. There is also the body of Pope Innocent X, who had the church enlarged, lays in a crypt to the left of the alter.

EyeWitness Guide. pg. 121

"Sant'Agnese in Agone." Wikia. 27 Feb 2007. 2 Jun 2008. http://romanchurches.wikia.com/wiki/Sant'Agnese_in_Agone.

Home Wine Making

The other day, my boyfriend was telling me how him and his friend decided to learn how to brew their own beer. I thought it was such a great idea. It allows you to understand what you are drinking and enjoy your beer so much more.

So, I wondered if it would be possible to make your own wine, since it is a blog topic of mine. Much to my delight, it is extremely possible to do and fairly inexpensive once you complete the process a few times. All you need to do is a little research online and buy a few kits to begin.

To get started it is easiest to purchase an equipment starter kit and a wine ingredient kit. Since both kits contain everything that you need to create the perfect wine for your taste all you need to do next is add water. This will cause the fermentation process to occur and soon your wine will be ready.

• please click here for a list of the contents of both kits
• please click here for step-by-step instructions
• a recipe for dry red and white table wine can be found here
  

"An Introduction to Homewinemaking & Homebrew." Home Wine Making. 2 Jun 2008. http://www.homewinemaking.co.uk/.

"I want to make my own wine and beer!." Brewery Lane. Brewery Lane Ltd.. 2 Jun 2008. http://www.brewerylane.com/getting_started.html.

Crowe, Alison. "your first wine from fresh grapes." WineMaker. 2 Jun 2008. http://winemakermag.com/yourfirstwine/grapes.html.

Campo de' Fiori

Campo de' Fiori, which literally means field of flowers, is home to one of the nicest fruit and vegetable markets I have seen so far in Rome. Surrounding the center statue, philosopher Giordano Bruno, are restaurants, shops, bars, and many grand buildings. There is no fountain in this piazza, which is a rare thing to find in Rome.

In the time of medieval and Renaissance Rome, Campo de' Fiori was the place for cardinals and noblemen to interact with fishmongers and foreigners. Today, you can still see men in expensive suits passing through or chatting with various people, while school kids relax on the base of the center statue. There are people of all social classes that congregate in this piazza, either to eat, drink, shop, or to just simply socialize.

It seems that time does not matter at Campo de' Fiori because I have been there morning, noon, and night and it is always full of people. In the afternoon, the market fills the center of the piazza with so much life, color, and wonderful smells. The fruit, although a bit pricey, is a delicious treat on a hot day!

Eyewitness book

Wine Etiquette

I will be traveling to Tuscany next weekend, so I thought it would be extremely important to learn wine etiquette before I entered a wine tasting. Although it may seem intimidating to enter a wine tasting at 21, I found that these guidelines helpful in easing my nerves. I also think it will enlighten my experience while I am there, having all this knowledge prior to arriving.

If you are planning on trying more than one wine, it is important to try white wines before red wines, light wines before dark, dry wines before sweet, and simple wines before complex.

There are 5 steps one can follow when tasting wine. They are color, swirl, smell, taste, and savor.

The color of the wine can give you a sense of how old the wine is, which type of grape was used to produce it, and if the wine was aged in wood.

It is important to allow your wine to breathe, that is why people swirl the wine in their glass before trying it. The oxygen in the air helps to open up the flavors in the wine, especially for red wines. That is why some red wines are served in open glass containers, instead of bottles.

Smelling the wine, after you swirl it, is said to be the most important step in the entire process. You are supposed to smell it three times, so that each time you encounter more of the essence of the wine. It is suggested that you the smell the wines you prefer often, so that you can begin to identify the better ones.

Once you finally take a sip of the wine, it is important not to just swallow it immediately. You should allow all the taste buds in your mouth to experience the flavors in the wine. If you just swallow it right away, you will never fully taste the wine.

The final step is to savor the wine you just had. It is a good idea, after you finish, to reflect on the wine you had and exam what you liked and disliked about it. This will help you decide which types of wines you prefer!

"Maggie's Wine Etiquette ." 28 May 2008. http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/9705/wine/wine.html.
"Wine Etiquette." Pick A Restaurant. 28 May 2008. http://www.pickarestaurant.com/reference/wine_etiquetterecommended_wine.htm.

Alone in Rome

Today was the first day I was alone in the city! I walked all the way home from class by myself, and I felt completely at ease. I knew exactly where I was going, exactly where to turn right and left, and how to forcefully cross the busy streets. I never felt scared or nervous, which was a delightful feeling. Before I came to Rome, lots of people, family and friends included, had me terrified to go anywhere alone in the city. After today, I feel like all those worried feelings are gone.

I also went to the Standa, known as the grocery store, alone today too. I was able to get everything I needed much faster than I ever could with a big group. The only thing was carrying all of my groceries back by myself was a hassle, but I found a new shortcut home so it was OK.

All in all I was really proud of myself today. I feel like I actually live in Rome now, as opposed to just studying in Rome. It is a really comforting feeling to feel at home; when your real home is so many miles away!

Italian Donuts

In the morning at the cafes, I usually have a hard time figuring out which pastry to have. The croissants are always fluffy and coated with a sugar glaze. The cream filled zeppole are covered in a powered sugar and deep fried into a ball shape. The sugar donuts, though, have become my favorite!

They look so enormous behind the glass counter top and even bigger on my plate, yet I always manage to finish them. Its a wonder to me because back home I never eat this much; it must be something in the Roman air.
So far I have only tried the torus-shaped donuts, which are the typical round donuts with a hole in the center. I have learned after eating three donuts at different cafes that they are called ciambelle. The only thing necessary to qualify as a ciambelle is that it is a ring-shaped cake, with a hollow center. I have only found them with sugar on the outside so far, but I hope to find one with some icing!

I enjoy the Italian version of a donut much more than the American donuts because the Italian donut is much lighter and less greasy. When I bite into the donuts in Rome, I can feel the light air fly out of them, unlike the grease I feel from the ones in America. The only dilemma I run into with the donuts in Rome is that my mouth is covered in sugar after every bite!

"Ciambelle." About.com. 27 May 2008. http://italianfood.about.com/library/weekly/aa120198.htm.

"Doughnut." Wikipedia. 16 May 2008. 27 May 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doughnut#Italy.

"Zeppole." Wikipedia. 16 March 2008. 27 May 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zeppole.

Procession inside Saint Peter's

While I was examining the different sculptures, paintings, and mosaics that lined the walls and ceiling of Saint Peter's I noticed the center of the church was beginning to be guarded off. As more and more people noticed they began to gather around the make shift block aids. I, not knowing much of anything about what happens in church, joined the crowd.

Well, I am so glad that I did join in because I was able to see the procession of ministers and cardinals! I had never seen anything like it before. Everyone walked at the same pace, and held the same, emotionless expression on their face. One of the boys was holding an incense that carried the smell of the resin of trees throughout all of Saint Peter's.

After the procession was over, I learned that the three cardinals at the end of the procession were some of the most powerful people in the Catholic church. I was extremely humbled to be able to be so close to people in such power. I have never even been that close to any of the United States presidents!

The Fontana del Moro & Fontana del Nettuno in Piazza Navona

The Fontana del Moro sits on the southern end of the Piazza Navona, to the left of the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi if you come from the Pantheon. It was designed by Giacomo della Porto and erected in 1575. The bottom of the staute is of four Tritons and the basin is made of special antique rose marble. The center of the statue, a Triton, resembling a moor, holding a dolphin, was added by Bernini in 1654. The statue received its name from Bernini's addition. This water fountain statue is extremely beautiful to watch on a nice sunny day, but there is another wonderful statue at the north end of Piazza Navona to see.

To the right of the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi is the Fontana del Nettuno. Although it is not labeled in our Eyewitness Guide book it is definately something to check out while in Piazza Navona. It was also built by Giacomo della Porta but in 1576. It is also known as Calderari, which means brazier. The water fountain statue is comprised of a Neptune surrounded of sea nymphs, that was added in the 19th century. Around them are various creatures and people. There is a large horse that seems to fighting for its life, drowning in the water. Both statues are extremely beautiful in their own way but have similar qualities because both were created by the same man.
Bakerjian, Martha . "Walking Tour of Piazza Navona in Rome." About.com. 26 May 2008. http://goitaly.about.com/od/romeitaly/ss/piazzanavona_4.htm.

"Piazza Navona." A view on cities . 26 May 2008. http://www.aviewoncities.com/rome/piazzanavona.htm.

Caffelatte vs. Caffe Americano

When Americans travel to Italy and desire a coffee, they sometimes run into trouble when ordering at a cafe. When they say they wish to have a caffe they think they are ordering a cup of regular coffee, but they are sadly mistaken when their hot beverage arrives. Caffelatte literally means coffee and milk, but this drink is made with warm milk as opposed to cold milk, like in the States. It is also generally drank in the morning hours and made with espresso, steamed milk, and foamed milk.

Cafe Americano is what those wishing to have a cup of 'Joe' or regular coffee from the States must order. This is simply your typical roasted coffee beans, that can be ordered with milk and sugar.

I had my first experience of a caffelatte this weekend. I enjoy the aroma that coffee emits but I have never enjoyed the taste. However, like I stated in a previous blog, I must try different caffes and cappuccinos while I am in Italy. I took one sip of the caffelatte and knew I was not about to change to a coffee lover that morning. It had a slightly bitter taste and left an unwelcoming after taste in my mouth. I was proud that I gave it a try but I'm now even more hesitant about trying a cappuccino!

"Latte." Wikipedia. 12 May 2008. 25 May 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cafe_latte.

Vino Bianco from Sorrento

This weekend I had the chance to visit Sorrento, Italy and taste the 'vino locale bianco' at dinner. The wine that comes from Sorrento falls into the Campania region. This is because there are 20 different wine regions in Italy, that correspond to the different political regions. There is also over 350 grapes that have been documented by Italy's Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry and given "authorized status".

The wine I had for dinner, from Ristorante del Fino, had a hint of fruit but was on the dry side, which I adored. It was one of the best white wines I have ever had. I always wanted to have a glass of Italian wine and be in the city it was from. I felt like I was living a dream, drinking my glass of wine, while the sun set over the sea behind us. Our waiter, Roberto, recommended the wine, and having read about this restaurant in Rick Steve's book I was confident in Roberto's suggestion. He said the wine was made not far from where we were staying and eating dinner in Marina Grande.

Although not considered wine, I also had a chance to try the limoncello made in Sorrento. The lemons in this region are amazing. They grow extremely large and are very sweet. Every restaurant we ate at gave us free samples of limoncello to try. The people in Sorrento are extremely proud of this product, and they should be because it has a wonderful taste and quality. It is sweet and refreshing but with a strong kick at the end. I had to buy some for my family back home!

Reference: "Italian Wine." Wikipedia. 20 May 2008. 21 May 2008 .

History on Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona is located in Rome between Corso del Rinascimento and Via di Santa Maria dell'Anima, or more broadly between Campo de'Fiori and Piazza della Rotanda. The square was created so that the Romans could watch the agones, or games, occurring in the square. The square then became known as 'Circus Agonalis' but evolved to 'in agone' to navone and finally to navona. The area officially became a square in the 15th century when the Campidoglio market was moved to the Piazza Navona.

Although the market now exists in Campo de'Fiori, Piazza Navona still has lots to offer locals and visitors at all times of the day. There is a plethora of restaurants, cafes, churches, and sculptures to dine in or admire.

The center of the Piazza is home to the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. The fountain was designed by Bernini and erected in 1651. "The Fountain of the Four Rivers" supports an Egyptian obelisk and is said to represent the four main rivers in the four continents that Renaissance geographers recognized. This fountain, along with all the other ones in Rome, was extremely important to Romans because it served as a source of water for those in the area and as a monument to the papal pastors.

It is unfortunate that at the moment is either under repair or being cleaned, so there is scaffolding and tarps surrounding it. It is difficult to grasp the true beauty and importance of the fountain while it is mostly covered. I have read that the statue contains the river-god Ganges but I have yet to be able to see him through the construction. I hope to see him before the summer ends!

"Piazza Navona." Wikipedia. 08 May 2008. 22 May 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piazza_navona.

"Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi." Wikipedia. 08 Apr 2008. 22 May 2008. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fontana_dei_Quattro_Fiumi.

Eyewitness Guide Book

Ooo the rain!

For the past three days it has done nothing but pour buckets of water on our city! The rain has continuously fallen, with pockets of sunshine here and there. The Tiber River is raging with muddy, brown water that is beginning to overflow its banks. This sort of weather pattern is extremely rare for Rome, so I am hoping this is all the rain we will get all summer. It is so funny to walk the streets while it is raining or right after it has rained because there is no one out. Everyone hides inside cafes or stores. No one eats outside. The city looses all of its life when the rain falls. I for one have had enough of the rain!

Shopping by Campo de' Fiori

On my walk back home from school today, Nicole V. and I decided to stroll through Campo de' Fiori to see the food vendors there in the afternoon. I was so excited because the one vendor had these grapes that were so big and plump, my mouth began to salivate. Unfortunately when I asked how much and she said 7,40 euro, I was so disappointed. So we kept walking home without any grapes and decided to stop in a small clothing store. This was an experience. From having to leave my umbrella outside of the store, to the owner, which was a man mind you, basically in my hole of a dressing room asking me every five seconds if it was good and if I was going to buy it. I couldn't help but laugh the whole time at the situation I had gotten myself into. In the end, I did buy a really cute skirt that I love, but I don't know if I will be going back to Campo de' Fiori to buy fruits or clothes anytime too soon!

Some History on Wine in Italy

Italians have been proudly growing grapes to harvest for wine for over two-thousand years! In the second century BC. Romans used their intelligence to their advantage and began developing their own vineyards to produce wine using advanced storage techniques like barrel-making and bottling.

Today, grapes are grown on over 1 million vineyards in Italy, with most of the wines being produced in wineries to increase production. Wines created in Italy "tend to be acidic, dry, light-to-medium bodied, and subdued in flavor and aroma". I was surprised to find that because of these characteristics Italian wine is preferred to be companied with food, rather than drink it on its own. I am really looking forward to going to this wine bar in Trastevere and seeing if they serve an aperitivo (appetizer) with a glass of wine.

There are four main categories of wine under Italy's classification system, with two in the EU category and two in the 'table wine' category. The EU category refers to the quality wine of produced in specific regions. Under the EU category are Denominazione di Orginie Controllata (DOC) and Denominazione di Orginie Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). These zones define specific regions and grapes that have been tested for quality. Under the 'table wine' category are Vino da Travola and Indicazione Geografica Tipica, which define wines from Italy and wines from specific regions in Italy respectfully.

As one is probably aware there are many varieties of wines in Italy, from rosso (red) to bianco (white) to super tuscans for which I will save for another blog.

Reference: "Italian Wine." Wikipedia. 20 May 2008. 21 May 2008 .

Insalata Anyone?

After more than a week of nothing but carbs to eat, I was in dire need of a salad. The other day on my walk home from Piazza Navona, I passed a restaurant called L'Insalata Ricca Ristorante and knew I needed to go there for lunch. It was a great find, only a few blocks away from Piazza Navona. The salads were delicious and not too pricey. The only thing they got us on was the bread. They charged 1,30 euro per person for bread! Besides that my chicken salad with carrots, celery, raisins, and potatoes was just what I needed.

Spremuta!

As I stated in my previous blog I am not a coffee person at all, so today I was ecstatic to try spremuta. It is freshly squeezed orange juice served in many of the cafes. The orange is cut in half right in front of you and freshly squeezed into a fairly small glass.

This morning I, along with Ilana, went to Bar Amore for breakfast. It is on our way to school, and although it was a bit pricey, 3,50 euro for a glass of spremuta, it was worth it. The first thing I asked the man who worked there when I walked in was, "do you serve spremuta?". When he shook his head yes, I immediately ordered one. Then I saw all the delicious pastries they had to offer. There were croissants, donuts, danish, cookies, cakes and more. Everything looked so good I had no idea what to choose, and the man serving me was getting a little impatient with my indecisiveness so he moved on to the locals in need of fast service.

I finally decided on a donut. I don't even like donuts at home but these looked amazing. They were covered with sugar and didn't appear to be greasy. He asked if we preferred to sit, which surprised me that they even had seats because most cafes don't inside, and we immediately said yes. I did want to try and emulate the locals by standing, conversing, and eating my breakfast but with my bag, computer and umbrella it was too much. I will have to try it on a day I don't need my laptop for class. I think I am addicted to the spremuta!